Mountains and volcanoes in Ecuador
Medium altitude peaks as Pasochoa, Iliniza North, Corazon, Cotacachi, Imbabura, Rumiñahui, Pichincha, Quilindaña are interesting and worthwhile aims and well suited as acclimatizing ground for higher and more challenging summits in the andes and other mountain ranges. Mountain trails leading to Inca Ruins (e.g. Ingapirca) and cross-country hikes through indian villages and andean paramo are also offered by tour operators in Quito, Baños, Latacunga, Riobamba, Otavalo and Cuenca. Some well-known treks and hikes are: the Abraspungo Trekking from Urbina to the Chimborazo refuge, the Altar Trek from Candelaria to Playas de Collanes and Alao, Antizana Trek from Papallacta to the Cotopaxi National Park, El Angel - Golondrinas Trek, Piñan Trek, Podocarpus National Park Trekking, Inca Trail from Achupallas to Inga Pirca, Condor Trek, Cotopaxi & Illinizas National Park Trekking, the Quilotoa Crater Lagoon hike and many hikes in the Cajas National Park close to Cuenca and in the Mojanda, Cotacachi and Cuicocha area near Otavalo.

Cayambe (5790m)
The compact, snowcapped Cayambe massive is about 65km in the northeast of Quito and on days with high visibility you can see it during the whole journey from Quito to Otavalo. The extinct volcano is not only the third-highest mountain in Ecuador, but also in both Americas in the north of the equatorial-line. The first man on the summit was probably the English Edward Whymper in 1880. Since this day, the mountain has demanded various victims. Because of the countless crevasses, the permanent danger of avalanches, the extremely strong winds and the astonishing snow storms, the Cayambe is primarily mounted by experienced climbers with top equipment. Inexperienced climbers should unconditionally contact a serious climb-office in Quito. About 20 years ago, the tree famous Ecuadorian climbers José Bergé, Carlos Oleas and César Ruales, have been killed in an accident by an enormous avalanche. The refuge's name on 4600m reminds today of the three casualties. The refuge disposes of 20 bunks, cooking facilities, toilets, chimney, drinking water and a refectory.

To get to the refuge, you have to diverge from the "Panamericana" in Cayambe. The cobbled street starts in the southern outskirts of Cayambe, near the "Coliseo de Deportes" (it has signs). From that point it takes a 6km drive to the Hacienda Piemonte (also called Hacienda Hato). There, the street bifurcates. The left arm leads to the Cayambe, the right arm to the massive of Sara Urcu. After other 8km, the arm to Cayambe comes to a bifurcation. You turn left, always following the sign "Reserva Ecológica Cayambe – Coca". The cobbled street soon turns into a harsh way that leads directly to the refuge. This two day hike to the refuge is also recommended to hikers without the intention to climb up the Cayambe. The refuge is about 26 km off the "Panamericana". The ascension should start as early as possible to make use of the stability of the snow. Already during the morning, the softened snow can cause avalanches and turn the hike into an incalculable risk. First, the way goes in a northward direction over the rocky hill behind the refuge. After one hour you reach the glacier "Hermoso". When moving on, you have to take care of the crevasses! After an other one and a half hours, you reach the rocks "Picos Jarrín", where the route turns in eastward direction. From the "Picos Jarrín" starts the most scarped and difficult part of the ascension, that leads the participants after further 3-4 hours to the summit. Below the summit, there's an enormous, hanging over crevasse that will cause problems for several groups. You should avoid it by passing on the left side. Who finally reaches the summit and enjoys the beautiful panorama, knows, why the Ecuadorian guides are bright-eyed when they talk about the adventure of the Cayambe.

Las Ilinizas (5126m & 5263m)
About 15 km before the first access to the Cotopaxi National Park (40km to the south of Quito), the two 5000m summits of the Iliniza Norte and the Iliniza Sur tower out of the western Andean cordillera. In prehistoric times, the Ilinizas were an uniform volcanic entity, whose summits are parted today by an anticline of 2km of length. The two summits present, from the climber's point of view, totally different degrees of difficulty. A good start for future climbers is the Iliniza Norte at 5126m, while the twin brother in the south (5263m) is definitely for experienced and professional climbers only. A basic refuge at 4650m, below the aligning saddle between the two mountains, provides accommodation (Caretaker, cooking facilities, a dozen bunks, costs 10 USD per person, you have to bring a sleeping bag and a mat). You can get fresh drinking water out of a creek near the refuge. Here starts the ascension to the northern summit which is technically easy and takes about 2-3 hours. First, the way goes up the crest, which always gets smaller, until you reach the "Paso de Muerte". After avoiding a steep face (to the right side) it goes up to the summit. As the northern summit is mostly snow free, only the altitude and the loose rocks on the last meters can cause problems. But this ascension can be recommended to all fit and acclimatized tourists who like to climb a 5000m mountain in their live. Climbing iron is not necessary but ski sticks can be useful. But anyway, laypersons should not renounce an experienced guide, also because this might have a suitable car for the circuitous access street to the parking site "La Virgen" (almost a one day trip from Quito). The arm from the "Panamericana" is about 5km in the south of Machachi. In a not signed location called Tarqui you have to turn left, about 100m before the bridge, towards El Chaupi (7km), there you go on to the Hacienda "El Refugio". About 16km after leaving the highway, there is the Iliniza parking site. A Jeep might get some 2km further, before starting the two hours walk up to the refuge. If you hire a car from Machachi to the parking site, it costs about 20 USD. There are some buses, driving from Machachi to El Chaupi. The nice hike from El Chaupi to the refuge takes about 8 hours!

The Iliniza Sur, on the other hand, is a challenge for every experienced and passionate mountaineer. In 1880, the brothers Jean and Louis Carrel succeeded the first ascension, while in the same year, the British climbing pioneer Edward Whymper, had to double down twice. The normal route leads from the refuge over the north wall. 60 degrees of upgrade, loosely rocks, crevasses and danger of avalanches are part of the risky adventure. 

Cotopaxi (5897m)
The Cotopaxi with it's 5897m of altitude is worldwide the highest, free-standing and active volcano. Traduced from Quichua, the composed word means about "Bland neck of the moon". As historical texts say, during a battle in 1534, between the advancing Spanish conquerors and the Inca, the Cotopaxi erupted and in the middle of the fight, the two parties escaped. The indigenous Incas, because they feared the tremendous gods and the Spanish, because they've never seen such an enormous wonder of nature before. After this eruption, the volcano was sleeping during 200 years until 1742, when it erupted again. The colonial city of Latacunga was totally destroyed for the first time. Further eruptions in the years 1743, 1744 and 1766 followed, and the most powerful in 1768, which destroyed Latacunga once again. In 1877, the 26 th of June, became a disastrous day for the people of Latacunga. The brewing hot lava streams flowed down on all sides of the cone. The melted mass of snow and ice caused huge avalanches of mud and boulder that flowed through the course of the rivers Pita, Guayllabamba and Esmeralda and reached the Pacific Ocean within 18 hours! Other destructive streams came down along the Río Cutuchi to Latacunga. They reached the city within less than 30 minutes and Baños within 3 hours. A black rain of ash fell over most parts of the highland and eclipsed even the far city of Guayaquil. The last eruption was in 1904, but a warm-up in the interior of the volcano has been recorded in 1975. The first human beings on the crater border were probably the German Wilhelm Reiss and his Columbian companion Angel Escobar in 1872. They reached the summit, hiking up a recently cooled lava stream on the west side of the mountain. Ten years later, also Edward Whymper reached the volcano, coming from the north, and he even spent the night on the border of the crater. The route he took is still today the most mounted route to the Cotopaxi and takes about 10 hours (up and down). All climbers start with the ascension around one o' clock at night. During the morning, the snow softens and you can hardly walk. An other advantage of the early start, is the stability of the snow-bridges that lead over the crevasses and it minimizes the danger of avalanches to a minimum. The first hour of the walk from the refuge leads over a scarp to the border of the glacier at 5200m. There you have to cross an overlapping ice wall. After a permanent ascension over the glacier, where you have to pass aside some clefts, marked with little banners, you reach the broad ridge on the right side, below the 120m high "Yanasacha- wall". After passing aside this wall, the way follows painfully over the upper glacier to the scarped ridge, which finally leads to the summit. The smell of brimstone welcomes the climbers at the border of the crater.

Tungurahua (5016m)
At the moment, people are advised against the ascension to the Tungurahua, because of the high volcanic activity. The snowcapped summit of the Tungurahua is about 10km to the south of Baños. The mountain is considered "abnormal" between the climbers. On one hand it is "very easy" and on the other hand "one of the hardest". Both opinions are right. As you don't have to pass crevasses or scarped ice-walls, the ascension from Baños (1800m) to the summit at 5000m does not present technical difficulties. The crampons just have to be put on the last part, below the border of the crater. An ice pick is necessary when the wind is strong. But physically, the Tungurahua is a hard challenge. Most of the time you walk steeply uphill- directly into the sky! Beginners should in no case renounce an experienced guide. Unforeseeable weather changes or heavy snowstorms have demanded several victims on this mountain. The first ascension reached the Germans Alfons Stübel and Wilhelm Reiss in 1873. The last eruption was in 1919. But the catastrophic eruption was in 1777, when several villages at the flank of the volcano were destroyed. On the opposite side of the "Avenida de los volcanes", towers the huge Chimborazo. With luck, you can even see the green carpet of the Amazon basin between the clouds, or the fire spying Sangay volcano. Best months for a successful ascension to Tungurahua are December to January. From the beginning of June to the end of August, there's most of the time bad weather.

Chimborazo (6310m)
With its 6310m of altitude, Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador and the only mountain at 6000m in the Ecuadorian Andes. Traduced from pre- Columbian languages, the composed word has several meanings: "Woman of ice","Cold seat of gods" or "Holy wind of the moon". Both the Incas and before them, the Puruháes, built temples on the bottom of the mountain where they sacrificed lamas and virgins in honor of the mountain. The last eruption of Chimborazo was already much earlier, about 5 Million years ago. The first ascension was tried by Alexander von Humboldt in 1802. Even if he "only" arrived to 5900m, he was till his death in 1859 the only man who reached this altitude. 84 years later, the English Edward Whymper and his Italian guides Juan Antonio and Luis Carrel reached the summit. In July 1939, the German- Italian expedition Kühn/Ghilione could for the first time measure the exact height of the mountain. Since that time, "Chimbo" has been defeated by lots of climbers and tourists from the whole world. Two refuges at 4800 and 5000m abbreviate the ascension today to 12 hours (8 up and 4 down). Mo st groups start just after midnight with the ascension on the Whymper Route. Through the small valley the way leads to the glacier. Then an almost endless ascension to the Thielmann glacier follows. Once on the main glacier, the route leads to the left side, to the scarped snow-saddle and reaches in conclusion the "Veintimilla summit" at 6270m, the second-highest peak of Chimborazo. Many breathless climbers will return here. Half a kilometer further in eastward direction, you can already see the "Whymper summit" at 6310m. Without one or two responsible guides, some glacier experience and a safe, well-fitted equipment (climbing iron and pick axe, eventually ski sticks and ice hammer) you shouldn't go further than to the upper Whymper refuge. Avalanches, crevasses, weather changes and the extreme absence of oxygen have already caused several victims. The Carrel and the Whymper refuges are located about 900m apart. Both refuges provide electricity, drinking water, toilets, cooking facilities, chimney, bunks and permanent caretaker. The accommodation costs about 10USD. The best months for a successful ascension are the clear, but windy months from mid June to end of August, and from the beginning of December to the beginning of February. From March to Mai, there's much snowfall while the mountain is very clouded. Because of the fast glacier melt in the Ecuadorian highland, the route of ascension to the Chimborazo has suffered various changes in the last years. So it is useful, before every organized tour, to ask the caretaker of the refuge about the actual condition of snow.
From Riobamba you drive on the "Panamericana Sur" in northeastern direction, to a big cement factory behind the village of Licán. Directly at the "Cemento Chimborazo" (km11) there's an arm, turning to the right side off the Panamericana to an asphaltic street, direction Guaranda. Following this street, after a few kilometers, you arrive at the village of San Juan with its modern and gross church. After crossing the village, there's a bifurcation at the Hacienda El Chaupi. The left, asphaltic way leads to Guaranda after 56km, the right, non asphaltic way to the Chimborazo refuges. Then you drive past the small indigenous villages of Shobol and Guabug. After totally 32km, the sandy street comes to the green valley of Totorillas. After 7 further kilometers, there's an other bifurcation. The left arm leads over the "arenal" in western direction, and reaches after few kilometers the pass of the asphaltic street Guaranda- Ambato, which proceeds "behind" Chimborazo. The right arm reaches after 8 sandy, zigzag kilometers the refuge at 4800m. We recommend a 4 wheels drive to get to the refuge. The wind is very strong and the respiration gets harder with every step. The "Reserva Faunística del Chimborazo" with its 58'000 hectares, is located in the borderland of the Andean provinces Chimborazo, Tungurahua and Bolívar. To the main attractions in this Pampagrass and mountain forest zone, belong the many lamas, some alcapas, and about 400 vicuñas, imported from Chile, Peru and Bolivia.

Sangay (5230m)
Sangay is one of the most active volcanoes of the American continent. The well-formed cone hides in a far-reaches region in the eastern cordillera of the Andes and you can see it on clear days both from the "Oriente" and from the highland. The ascension to Sangay is generally considered risky. Red-hot rains of stones and strong commotion from the eruptions make the ascension to an incalculable adventure. Besides this, you have to walk several days to reach the base camp on the foot of the mountain. The Sangay has always been very active. During a respite, an US expedition of four persons managed the first ascension in 1929. As the fist woman, the Ecuadorian Helena Landázuri reached the summit on the 16 th of September 1982. Several tour operators in Riobamba, Baños and Quito offer 7 day- trekking tours to the Sangay. From Riobamba, you go to the little village Alao and there to the Hacienda Eten where the mules get loaded. For the hard walk through the backcountry you have to calculate 3 to 4 days. There have to be crossed several rivers and creeks in the pathless area. The refuge "La Playa", located on a cold lava stream at 3600m, is on the western flanks of the mountain. All few minutes the explosions from the border of the crater can be observed from here. At night, the sight is mostly the best, when a thin film of ash lays on the climbers' tents. The Sangay National Park, with its 270'000 hectares, is an almost inaccessible mountain triangle between the provinces Morona Santiago, Tungurahua and Chimborazo and it includes both Amazon and Andean altitudes from 900 to 5230m. Torrents and creeks pave their ways down the valleys of this cliffy cloudforest terrain to build much further down the rivers Pastaza, Palora, Upano or Chambo. To the National Park belong the snowcapped 5000m summits Tungurahua, Altar and Sangay. Beside the unimaginable richness of flora there live also some of the animals that are in danger of extinction. For example the mountain tapir (danta), the spectacled bear, pumas, ocelots and jaguars. A new street, from Riobamba to the tropical Macas (along Guamote, Atillo and Zuñac), will soon divide the National Park into two parts. From the ecological point of view this doesn't mean any positive thing. But the journey over the eastern Andean cordillera with its beautiful landscape will be a great tourist attraction. The inhabitants of the "oriental" city Macas, are waiting wishfully for the completion of the controversial street.

Altar Massive (5320m)
Theodor Wolf saw in the 5320m high Altar massive a "masterly creation of the universe". Professional climbers talk today about a "pastoral dignity", which is represented by the name of the highest summit of this massive in the eastern cordillera (Cordillera Real or Oriental), "El Obispo", the bishop. In Quichua language it's called "Cápac Urco", ruler of the mountains. Indian legends say, that in primitive times, the Altar was higher than Chimborazo. An unimaginable mega eruption had destroyed the crater and left a semicircle with nine cusps. The Altar, which is located in the east of Riobamba, is technically considered problematic. It's icy crone presents totally nine sharp-edged summits. Today, all of them have been mounted, as last the 5160m high "La Monja Grande" (The big nun) in 1979. The first ascension to the last unconquered summit in the Andes, to "The bishop" reached an Italian expedition, guided by Marino Tremonti on the 7 th of July 1963. The Altar massive is absolutely not for climbing starters, but only for professionals. For those who want to do some trekking, the beautiful walk to a green crater lagoon, called "Laguna Amarilla", is recommended. There you can hear the glacier cracking, breaking and bursting. Enormous ice falls and cruising condors are no rarity here! You can reach the Altar, which belongs to the Sangay National Park, from Riobamba across the villages of Químiag and Puelazo (from Baños to Penipe). There you go either to the Hacienda Inguisay, or to the Hacienda Releche in Candelario. Mules can be hired there. This adventure should not be tried without an experienced guide. Serious tour operators in Riobamba, Baños and Quito have the ascension to the Alter in their agenda. The best months to mount the Altar massive are December and January.