Eco-travel to Ecuador's Andean east-slope has finally blossomed in the last decade, with some first-rate lodging and almost unbroken pavement from Quito all the way down to the Amazonian lowlands, setting the stage for some power-packed strengths that many visitors, and even Ecuadorian's, have yet to experience: miles of trails and roadsides through accessible pristine cloud forest, where Spectacled Bears, hundreds of bird species, and other rare and fascinating wildlife still dare to tread. The birding and wildlife potential, from the high paramos down to the lush and unbelievably bio-diverse foothills, rivals any on the planet. If the thought of seeing a White-bellied Antpitta coming to eat worms at your feet, White-capped Tanagers screaming from the treetops, or even the chance of lucking into a Giant Anteater shuffling along a trail gets your adrenaline flowing, the east-slope needs be a part of your plan.

One haven to check out, right in the middle of it all, is Cabañas San Isidro, near the small, sleepy town of Cosanga. A visit is like a trip back in time, where the primeval dominates the landscape. San Isidro is regarded as one of the premier birding lodges in Ecuador, where comfort and culinary pampering collide astoundingly with the untamed outdoors. Tucked away between two large reserves (at a cool and comfortable climate), its reserve forms a wide and flat forest corridor supporting a bird list that soars to well over 300 species. From the observation deck next to the cabins, the scenery is astounding, with an almost 3608 panoramic view of forest and towering knife-ridges that line the valley - great for hawks and swifts on a sunny day. Hardcore birding along forested roadsides and trails, or more relaxed hikes to Andean lakes, waterfalls, and rivers, each with different sets of birds and wildlife, are some of the most popular activities.

Early morning around the cabins is a great way to get acquainted with some of the more common birds as they congregate to feed on a myriad of moth species that gather at the lights; Masked Trogon, Highland Motmot, Inca Jay, and Subtropical Cacique are all regulars. Hummingbird feeders, the rage at many lodges, are swarmed by Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Bronzy Incas, and tiny Gorgeted Woodstars. A hike along the extensive forest trail system, a short stroll from the cabins, is great for mind-boggling mixed flocks where Black-chested Fruiteaters and noisy Rufous-breasted Flycatchers are part of the action.

More recently however, Cabañas San Isidro has been in the world birding spotlight because of some exciting discoveries, the most interesting of which being a gorgeous and large owl species that may prove to be new to science; genetic analysis is finally underway! Owls can be frustratingly difficult to see, but this one sits around the cabins on a nightly basis, often posing at close range, making observation a delight. It almost borders on the surreal to see a new species of owl right after a meal of fine vanguard cuisine. two specialties of the house.

Many exciting finds here are thanks to Harold Greeney, owner of the nearby Yanayacu Biology Station. Harold is a guru at finding bird nests, having found the nests of over 160 species right on the property, including Peruvian Antpitta (essentially unknown in life until the nest discovery) and Bicolored Antvireo. Once the nests are found, the researchers fly into action, setting up cameras to video the entire process until the young birds fledge. These fascinating studies have contributed enormously to what we know about the entire nesting process of many poorly-known species. Visitors are encouraged to stroll up to the station and catch a glimpse of what's going on; projects like butterfly rearing, frog surveys, among others, are being carried out by foreign and Ecuadorian students.

So come and check out what's going on, on the wild - yet civilized - side of Ecuador; there is a lot to choose from, and San Isidro is only one of the captivating spots waiting to tingle your senses. Hope to see you soon!

By: Mitch Lysinger- Cabañas San Isidro

Article © by This is Ecuador Magazine  Order your monthly copy of This is Ecuador