The Guinea Pig – neither from Guinea nor a Pig

No other ingredient used in Ecuadorian food generates as much controversy and personal feelings and opinions as the Guinea Pig, or Cuy as it is known throughout the Andes. Its traditional preparation, often seen along roads of the highlands, where whole skinless animals are impaled on large wooden skewers and slowly roasted over open fire never fail to impact foreigners and Ecuadorians from coastal areas alike.
Undoubtedly the fact that it is widely seen as a cute pet by most cultures in the world does not help its cause as a dish to be tried. But mostly, it is its rodent like features, the fact that it is prepared whole including feet as well as a head with eyes and ears, that ensures it continues to be mostly looked at as a photo opportunity instead of a culinary experience.

Before making the case for eating this delicacy however, a bit more of its very interesting history should be known. Guinea pigs and humans have shared history for over 10,000 years. Originating in the wild on the hills and mountains of what today is Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru, the Guinea Pig was domesticated by the pre-Incan cultures over 7.000 years ago. As one of only 5 animals domesticated in all of South America (the other fours being the turkey in Mexico, the Llama/Alpaca in the Andes, the Muscovy duck in tropical South America and the dog throughout all of the Americas) it has always played an important role in religious ceremonies, folk medicine as well of course as a source of protein and fur.

Its scientific name is Cavia Porcellus, with Cavia driving from the Portuguese Çavia which itself is derived from the Tupi word Saujá meaning rat and Porcellus being Latin for “little pig”.  In Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia it is known as Cuy which derives from the Quechua word Quwi which is believed to be a phonetic representation of the noises the animals can make. The origins of the more colloquially used Guinea Pig are a bit less certain. Although often the use of the word Guinea is explained as having been the price these animals cost when first introduced to Europe, this can be discarded as being untrue, as records show the name being used over ten years before the coin  was minted. Some of the more credible hypotheses are that because many of the sailing routes from South America led through Guinea in Africa or because “Guinea” was also frequently used in English to refer to any far-off unknown country. The Spanish conquistadors called them conejillo de indias, which means “small rabbits of the indies”. Evidently there are certain similarities in the appearances and often the new world was referred to as Indies. The use of the word pig in English seems to stem from the fact that they are built somewhat like pigs, with large heads relative to their bodies, stout necks, and rounded rumps with no tail. The taste also has some similarities to piglet when roasted and its skin when properly prepared can somewhat remind one of pork cracklings.

The meat of the cuy is high in protein, low in fat and cholesterol and described by some as being similar to rabbit or dark chicken meat and by others more like a suckling pig. Either way, its role in the Ecuadorean cuisine is growing, as more and more young chefs are finding new ways to prepare and present it. It´s use in stews, stuffed meat rolls or even as burgers have helped skeptics overcome their inhibitions and try this very delicious meat.

A yearly held culinary festival in Quito, the “Festival del Cuy” promotes this ancestral ingredient and displays some truly innovative preparations. Last years winner was a “Cuy Gallantine served with Andean Herb Vinaigrette”, a dish worthy of any fine dining restaurant in the world. May your travels through Ecuador lead you to a restaurant where you can try cuy, or why not ask the chef of the hotel you are staying at to prepare you his personal favorite cuy dish.

By Vasco v. Baselli

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