Walking the streets of Quito, it surprised me how soon the year was coming to an end. Shop windows were already singing Christmas Carols and I started humming. Christmas walked in and brought my childhood memories back as edible sweets began playing in my mind... wonderful and especially delicious!

The child in me remembered my grandmother’s kitchen, as well as the aromas from her pots and pans. I see her hands twisting my favorite dough in a way that, when bathed in gleaming dark brown sugar syrup, I would swear they were sky fallen stars. A Christmas classic inherited from Spain; Ecuadorian families have their own secret recipe, I am sharing mine with you: My Grandmother’s “Pristiños”.

In her light pink apron and a smile on her face, she flirted with us, as she took two cups of flour to form a mountain, filling its center with two tablespoons of melted butter and one of oil. Glued to her movements, we followed her hands until the dough resembled coarse meal, adding half a cup of hot water, mixed with one tablespoon of baking powder. With a fork, she beat a couple of yolks, adding them to the velvety dough. With the sweetest movements, she rolled it out until paper thin and, then cut it magically, so that, when they were put in the hottest oil, they browned and puffed and looked like stars. The “pristiños” were ready to be covered by freshly made brown sugar syrup, with a stick of cinnamon and lemon juice. Golden ready, to awaken the most incredible Christmas feelings…

Remembering sweet flavors, I suddenly bumped into an old friend who is a chef, with whom I was certain I could share my festive memories. Cumbayá’s central plaza has filled up, after its restoration, with wonderful  little restaurants, some renowned, others new, hiding their secrets for special guests. My friend is a chef in one of these restaurants, and he invited me into his magic kitchen, where we started savoring “pristiños” in our minds. A bold chef, he gives traditional cuisine a personal twist. “It was a family afternoon, as we got ready for Christmas, - he said- I asked my grandmother for her   “pristiños” recipe. As she prepared them, I realized that her special secret was, lots of love and tricks that I should never forget: oil has to be so hot, as to barely burn your finger, or in modern technique 90 degrees Celsius. The butter has to be well melted but never clarified. It is better if possible to put the dough through a pasta machine. And, last but not least, when working the dough, do it with your hands fully covered in flour and, when you set the “pristiños” in the boiling oil, do it with love, so as to help them grow.”

Walking back, when I had luckily met him, he had some freshly fried “pristiños”, but forgot the syrup. Creative as he is, he immediately prepared what is now called a “Crema Montada de Hierba Luisa”, a very light creamy mousse based on lemongrass. I can tell you, temperatures, textures and aromas remained clearly as it covered the “pristiños”, but the magic of the herb created another delicious novelty.

By: María Cárdenas R.

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