Death has always intrigued mankind. What happens after we die? Is there life after death? All around the world, cultures have tried to ease the pain when loved ones "pass away" and have tried to make sense of death. In Ecuadorian culture, in which family ties are highly valued, remembering the dead takes on a particularly rich dimension. The Day of the Dead, celebrated on November 2, is a time in which Ecuadorians try to assimilate this natural process, through a unique tradition: from baking guagua de pan (bread children), visiting cemeteries, and, in some cases making beautiful Masapan figurines.

From Celts to Saints
How did the Day of the Dead begin? It's definitely not unique to Ecuador. Its origin can be traced back across many oceans and several centuries, to the land of the Celts and Anglo Saxons. During the fall, they honored the God of the Dead through several rituals. However, it was Pope Gregory IV in 840 who, in an attempt to take advantage of Celtic zeal, transformed this existing pagan cult, into a Catholic celebration. This new festivity would honor all the dead saints which didn't have an official day in the Catholic calendar. In this way the Catholic Church, was keenly able ensure the faith of the pagans. Two centuries later, the day was changed from November 1st to November 2nd. As the power and control of the Catholic Church spread throughout the known world, so did this new holiday, until it eventually reached the Americas in the XVI century.

Honoring the Dead, Ecuadorian Style
When the Day of the Dead reached the Americas it fell on fertile ground. This is because most native ethnic groups also honored the dead. In fact, death was seen as part of life, and the deceased also had needs. For example, Spanish conquistadores were appalled when they saw Incan mummies of ancestors nonchalantly sitting in a dinning room of an Incan palace! In archeological digs, many burial sites were found with implements such as food, jewels and clothing for the next life. Today, some indigenous peoples of the Ecuadorian Amazon still burry their dead underneath their homes! These examples show that for Andean peoples, the dead must be kept close, respected, and have their needs met too.

In Ecuador, especially in the highlands, an interesting tradition exists. It consists of eating child-shaped bread, accompanied with a delicious fruity red beverage. It provides a good excuse for families to gather together, and share this delicious meal. Later on, the family will pay a visit together to cemeteries, and greet their deceased relatives. Tombs stones are carefully decorated with wreaths and candles, and food is placed on the tombs and shared. Food shared? Yes! In more time-honored indigenous areas, next to the tombs, holes are made and some liquor, a bread child, and any food which was a favorite of the dead person are to be placed inside. As the food is absorbed by the ground, it is said the dead person is eating. Then, a virtual picnic occurs on top of the tomb stones! This might shock some foreigners, but keep in mind that it's a way to pay homage, and keep a close connection with loved ones who have passed away.

Where did the "bread children" tradition come from? Some historians believe the bread is a Spanish tradition because it represents the body of Christ. Others feel the child-like shape is some kind of a reminder of human sacrifice. However, this is unlikely since most archeological excavations have proven human sacrifice was not a common practice in Ecuador. Either way, the tradition is a fusion of the Spanish Catholic heritage, and indigenous people's desire to honor and connect with the dead.

In Calderon, a village now turned suburb north of Quito, the Day of the Dead takes and even richer twist. This dry and dusty area is the home of beautiful marzipan figurines which used to be part of the Day of the Dead tradition. As one marzipan artisan explains, indigenous people from around Quito and Cayambe, would buy the marzipan horses, llamas and children, and give them as presents in November. "It was like Christmas" she says with nostalgia. "They would come from all over to buy our lovely figurines and give them to each other as presents or to adorn tombstones in cemeteries." Today, in some of the more traditional cemeteries such as Otavalo, Calderon and possibly San Diego cemetery in Quito, a simple version of these figures may still be seen.

But what came first, the guaguas de pan or the marzipan figurines? Most sources tell that first came the guaguas de pan, and the figurines were born from there. How did they get the idea to turn the bread children (edible) into lovely marzipan figurines (not edible) and sell them for profit? Some say that Peace Corp volunteers taught Calderon women to make them in the 1960's, buy most artisan interviewed talk about their grandmothers and great grandmothers teaching them, this would be 20 or 30 years before the Peace Corp volunteers. Possibly, the volunteers helped Calderon artisans market and develop their already existing products. One Calderon artisan comments: "Yes, I remember the Peace Corp volunteers. Once we had a girl here for months, but she was never able to make one decent figurine, poor thing!" This makes one wonder, who was teaching who? Either way, artisans recognize the role of another foreigner, Hungarian born, promoter of Ecuadorian arts and crafts, Olga Fisch. Some said it was Olga who gave them new models, ideas and promoted them abroad. Yet she always respected their work and gave them credit. For this reason they remember her fondly.

Lively Colors
Originally most traditional shapes were bread children, little horses or llamas. But now artisans have branched out to more creative design: nativity scenes, picture frames, dolls, napkin holders, Christmas tree decoration, etc. They are also experimenting with new types of dough mixed with glue, which is more malleable, but unfortunately less striking than the first. Yet most continue to be hand-made which takes some skill, practice and patience. The figures are simple and colorful and will provide a cheerful decoration for any home during the Christmas holidays.

Though common to all Catholics, the Day of the Dead, as celebrated in Ecuador, is a unique expression of our heritage. Hopefully, the respect and love for ancestors, the sharing of a meal as a family, the bread children, and the marzipan figures will not be dissolved.

By Carolina Matheus, for Folklore Olga Fisch

Bibliography:
www.edufuturo.com, October , 2007
www.pagina12.com.ar, October, 2007
Cecilia Trujillo, personal interview. October, 2007.

Photographs:
Iván Ceballos

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