Train journeys in Ecuador can be slow and uncomfortable, but they are a sure adventure! The Trans-Andean Railroad is a spectacular tourist attraction for the variety of climates and the fantastic natural and cultural scenery along the journeys. Moreover, the trains themselves are a colorful part of the landscape. The old steam trains and peculiar "autoferros" (iron cars) that travel along the Andes are almost a relic. The autoferro is actually an antiquated bus complete with brakes that feed on sand, mounted on a train’s chassis and fitted with a diesel engine. Foreigners are always surprised by the fact that one is allowed to climb to the trains’ roofs. We recommend that you wear a hat, sun block, and a jacket, and climb on the roof; it ensures the best view! Watch out for the branches and tunnels, though! Train travel in Ecuador began in 1910, when the Quito - Guayaquil line was opened. In 1895, President Eloy Alfaro contacted an American company interested in building the "most difficult railway in the world", as it was called at the time. The construction began in 1899. It reduced a nine-day trek along a path that was impassable during the rainy season, to a two-day journey. Soon, it was acclaimed as one of the "great railway journeys of the world". A great deal of the Quito - Guayaquil railway was destroyed by landslides during the devastating El Niño floods of 1982-83, but some sections have since been repaired.

The routes that are now open are:
RIOBAMBA - SIBAMBE - RIOBAMBA:
On Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 7h00, the old train leaves from the station at the city of Riobamba (10 de Agosto and Carabobo), passes through Cajabamba and the Colta lagoons, and the small Guamote village. At 10h30 it climbs to a little picturesque town in the highlands called Alausí.
Then comes the most exhilarating part of the journey, said to be one of the most spectacular in the world. The train zigzags up and down 45-degree gradient called "Nariz del Diablo" (Devil’s Nose) in a breathtaking experience. The train goes backwards on the way down, until it reaches the Simbambe station, and after 30 minutes it goes back to Alausí.

At 13h30 it leaves back towards Riobamba, where it arrives at 17h00. Price: US$ 14.20 round trip.
It is also possible to take the train only from Alausí down "Nariz del Diablo" and back. The town of Alausí has beautiful cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and a colorful food market that is definitely worth visiting! The train station is easy to find at the heart of the town. Roundtrip Aluasí-Sibambe-Alausí is $8. "La Vieja Casona" offers excellent accommodations at this charming town. You need to contact the family that owns the house beforehand to arrange your lodging (2459-197 in Quito or 099-700-778).

QUITO - COTOPAXI - QUITO:
The train leaves Saturdays and Sundays at 8h00 from the Quito train station (Sincholagua and Maldonado Street No. 315) to the "Boliche" Recreational Area. The "Boliche" is a pine forest at the entrance of the Cotopaxi National Park (see page 10 for more information). Pines were introduced to Ecuador; they are not native trees. But along the train journey you will also be able to observe native bushes typical of the Andes. On the way, the magnificent sight of the Andes, parallel to what Humboldt called the "Avenue of Volcanoes", presents a panorama that makes it difficult to decide which side to look at. It runs for approximately three hours, allowing a view of the Ecuadorian Andean Range where the snow capped Cotopaxi dominates the scenery. It also passes by traditional colonial haciendas and peasants that show the rural life in the Andes. At the "Boliche" you can have a picnic and take walks, until the train departs at 14h30. It is back in the Quito station at 17h00. Price per person $4.60 round trip.Metropolitan Touring recently inaugurated a whole day excursion that combines a ride on "autoferro" along this railway with lunch at a typical farm. The "autoferro" leaves every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8h00 from the Quito Station. The ride can be complemented with other packages to visit the nearby haciendas, towns, and cities, or to continue by bus so that you can take the other train ride (Riobamba-Sibambe-Riobamba) on the next day.

IBARRA - PRIMER PASO - IBARRA:
The autoferro ("iron car") leaves from the city of Ibarra, capital of the Imbabura province, to a site called "El Paso", next to the river Mira. This journey crosses numerous tunnels, and spindly bridges over heart-stopping deep ravines. The changing scenery of the province of Imbabura is stunning: the train descends from green mountains to a desert valley and finally to tropical humid weather. The Ibarra - San Lorenzo line was opened in 1957 after two French companies spent five years hacking a way through the wilderness. Until the recent construction of a highway, this was the only means of overland access to the coastal port of San Lorenzo in the northwestern tip of the country. Unfortunately, now the railway is only working up to "Primer Paso". Each way is of an hour and a half, however usually it takes a day trip because one stays in "El Paso" for a picnic, to rest and maybe even bathe in the river.
The price of the roundtrip is of $50 for the whole autoferro, which can carry up to 50 passengers. The autoferro does not have a regular schedule, as it only runs when a group rents it, but it is possible to do it any day of the week. To arrange the trip, call the Ibarra station at 06-2950390. For further information on all the train routes, call:
Empresa Nacional de Ferrocarriles (02) 2582-924/1 (Quito)
Ticket office in Quito (02) 2582-930
Riobamba Station (03) 2961-909
Alausí Station (03) 2930-126
Ibarra Station (06) 2950-390

Article © by This is Ecuador Magazine  Order your monthly copy of This is Ecuador